Looking back - Vodka dinner in Suzdal

Saturday, August 28, 2010 and Sunday, August 22, 2010
(written on August 28)

How is my Intrepid trip over already?  It feels like it just started a few days ago.  When I look back and think about spending three consecutive nights on a train, my banya experience, horseback riding in Terelj, eating dumplings for breakfast outside the hotel in Beijing, walking non-stop in Moscow and St Petersburg, I guess it feels like I've done a lot.  

But I honestly can't believe it was three weeks since I rocked up in Beijing excited and nervous about the trip.  What would the people be like?  Would I survive the train?  What kind of food would we be eating?  How would accommodation work?  The list of questions and concerns in my mind was endless.  Fortunately, everything about the past three weeks went as well as it could, barring the weather.  The weather is my only complaint about the trip, and the weather is the one thing I had no control over.  After almost three weeks of heat and humidity, arriving in rainy cold Mongolia was a shock to the system.  Somehow, we seemed to follow the bad weather west (doesn't weather travel east?) and it rained in every one of our stops, Lake Baikal, Suzdal, Moscow, St Petersburg.  That's not to say it was raining non stop, but in general it was cloudy and cold.  The sun seemed to come out in full force (finally warming me up) for at least a few hours in both Moscow and St Petersburg.  It was sunny for our day in Irkutsk, but sadly we did not get to enjoy the full beauty of Lake Baikal.


The last week has been so busy that I haven't written since we got off the train in Vladimir.  That means I missed out on a night in Suzdal, two nights in Moscow, a night on the train, and two nights in St Petersburg.  While the best thing I can think of it to use bullet points of what I've done, I need to fully describe our dinner at Lena's house in Suzdal.


The night we got off the train was spent in Suzdal.  We had a bit over an hour after arriving at the hotel, a 30 minute bus ride from Vladimir, to shower and clean off after three nights on the train.  I washed my hair and body twice and greatly enjoyed standing under the hotel water.  Our two hour walking tour (mostly in the rain) took in the Kremlin (means fortress in Russian), the church, and a convent with beautiful views over the city.  On the train, Anna suggested that we go to a local house for dinner.  Apparently other Intrepid trips stay with this woman and she cooks.  I thought it sounded ok, and since the group wanted to go, I figured I was in too.

Group after the first shot

Little did I know what a fantastic evening it would be.  Lena, our host, lives on her own and is an excellent cook.  But when you dine with Russians, it is not just about the food, it is also about the vodka.  Before we even started eating, we toasted with a shot of vodka.  I knew this would be bad news seeing as I hadn't eaten since my noddle lunch on the train, but you can't refuse a drink.  Even Steph, who really doesn't drink, took her shot like a pro.  I followed it up with the fresh pear juice that Lena prepared; a very good chaser.  Our starter was some type of Russian salad, goose-no!  When the second course, the famous borscht soup, was on the table, it was time for another shot.  The vodka had already hit me a bit and I couldn't bear the thought of having another shot, so I had a half shot.  Steph kept up as well with a quarter of a shot.  That's when I really started becoming entertaining.  I am such a light-weight as it is and given that there was so little food in my stomach, the only possible outcome was a drunk Erica.  The borscht was amazing, such fabulous flavor, but it was also hot.  The combination of the hot soup and alcohol warmed me up very quickly.  All the sudden my face was red and I was sweating.  My scarf, which I'd been wearing when we first came in, was off and I was rolling up the sleeves of my shirt.  And then, as I mentioned, I was making a bit of a fool of myself, and everyone was laughing at me, so my face got red, and redder.  I was laughing so hard I was crying.



The third shot is the shot of love.  The men took it first by placing the shot glass on the back of their hand and tipping it to their mouths.  Rod almost lost his on the floor.  For me, it was another partial shot, but as I said, I was basically already tipsy.  The main course was some type of chicken paddy with rice.  Another delicious dish.  Lena really can cook. Lena liked us so much that she took out another bottle of vodka for a fourth shot.  This time she filled up my glass all the way.  I actually did it in three gulps and there was no way I could take the entire thing at once.  Everyone's eyes were on me as I finished my vodka.  Even though I was full, I ate more bread, just to have something in my stomach to absorb the alcohol.  I was so hot and continued to be the entertainment for the group.  But it was such a fun evening.  Another wonderful experience.  Once again making me so glad that I'd chosen this tour, and my date so carefully.

Me and Lena

On the way back my main concern was getting sick.  Luckily, I survived the night and slept very well.