Bartolome and murky waters (aka day 4 Galapagos)

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Good day today.  We got off the boat!  The landing this morning was excellent but the afternoon was fairly disappointing.  The effects of the tsunami were evident at Black Turtle Cove where some of the mangrove trees fell down and the water was a cloudy brown, where it is normally crystal clear.

We began the day with our normal wake-up announcement at 7am and breakfast at 7:30 and news that we’d be able to disembark to Bartolome Island.  Located at the center of the archipelago, the highest point is 114 meters above sea level and is separated from the island of Santiago by the Bay of Sullivan.  The island has a surface area of 1.2 kilometers. (Rest of this post is in some type of short-hand.)

Bartolome Island

Dry landing on Bartolome.  Excellent views of island and Pinnacle Rock on approach.  Two sea lions on steps.  Walk up 365 stairs on Summit Trail to top of island.  Mostly plants, very few animals on the island: lava lizard, mangroves, pioneer plants, Tiquillia nesiotica (endemic to the island), Chamaesyce (aka sandmat), lava cactus, Scalesia bushes and other plants.  Stunning views of surrounding islands and Pinnacle Rock.  Some of landscape like moon.  Can see the crater underwater.  On way down, spot a couple Galapagos penguins.  Get in dingy and follow them.  Five in total.

Adorable sea lions on the steps

Tiquillia nesiotica

Lava cactus

Me holding some lava stone

View of Bartolome with Santiago in background

Underwater crater

Lava lizard on Tiquillia

Galapagos penguins!

Back to boat to change into bathing suits.  Snorkel time.  Beach has yellow sand.  One penguin swimming right near shore as we approach.  Water has ok visibility.  Lots of fish.  Most similar to the other dives.  Thought I saw a baby shark at beginning but not sure.  Daniel, our guide, spots two penguins on a rock.  Big ray sitting on floor.  Lots of coral and rocks – need to be careful.  More fish.  Swam back to shore. 

Pinnacle Rock

Penguin near the shore

Dingy ride back to the boat, but first Louis takes us to see the penguins.  They dive off the rocks just as we approach.  Follow them for a bit and also see two sea lions.  Brown pelicans sitting around.  Woman is snorkeling right next to the two penguins and sea lion and doesn’t see them.  We’re all yelling at her from the dingy.

More penguins :)

Pre-lunch Bloody Mary with Denni, Susan and Amy.  Lunch with Heather and Leonie.  Really good chicken lasagna.

Amy, Susan, Denni and me

Lunch with Heather and Leonie

Take an hour nap since I have a little cold (feel like a hypochondriac on this trip with my sore throat, pinched back nerve and runny nose).  Afternoon excursion is a dingy ride around Black Turtle Cove on Santa Cruz Island.  Raining when we set out.  See a great blue heron.  Pelicans sitting on the mangroves or fishing.  Can see the effects of the tsunami.  Some trees are down and the water is extremely murky.  Can barely see one foot down and normally it is clear.  Spot some turtles through all the muck and one ray.  I keep trying to get a picture of the turtle head and fail, becomes a bit of a joke on the dingy.  We’re headed to an area with sharks, but all the sudden a current picks up and gets strong very quickly, so we have to turn around.  Stupid tsunami.

Great blue heron

Brown pelican flying

Sea turtle

Few more turtles, great blue heron and pelicans on way back to boat.  Shower and get ready for dinner.  Supposed to be a barbeque but it’s raining.  Sea lion on back of boat, try to get a pic but it jumps off.  Sea lion comes back again and I snap a photo just before it disappears into the water.  

Me on the dingy in Black Turtle Cove

Brown pelicans in mangroves

Louis, our dingy driver

Dinner at 6:30pm.  Eat with the girls (Lorilee, Denni, Susan and Amy) for my last night.  Prawns, tuna, snapper, potatoes, salads, guacamole, bread, cheese.  So much to choose from.  I take a bit of each and Susan makes fun of my full plate.  Then Stacey says, “Wow, look how big your plate is” mostly because she overheard the conversation.  Very funny, we’re all laughing.  When Lynn walks in she exclaims, “Look at the size of the shrimp” but before she can finish, I say, please don’t say my plate.  Basically it looks like more food because I haven’t taken a small plate for the appetizers.  Sangria served with dinner.  Photos below of friends on-board.

Nancy, Mike, Bill and Catherine

Evan and Stacey

Leonie and Heather

Amy, Lorilee, Susan and Denni

Me and Amy at dinner

Post dinner briefing about tomorrow.  Charles Darwin center is closed because of the tsunami.  We’ll be going to a different point of the island to see the giant tortoises.  At least we get to see them.  Closing remarks, review cards and tips.  Exchange contact details with people.  Back to room to pack.