Detour to San Rafael

Sunday, January 23, 2011 – Monday, January 24, 2011

Yesterday the bus arrived in San Rafael one hour late.  I stopped into the tourist office to enquire about the direction of the hostel (I ended up having to go back and ask again because her directions didn’t make sense) then set off the ten minute walk.  Check in wasn’t until noon so I hung around the hostel (finished writing about Cordoba) and booked the tour for today.  Eventually I got out for lunch with a plan to visit a bodega (winery) by bike. 

Nice guy from the bus (previous post)

After some mediocre pizza at a local place, I walked in the direction of a potential bike shop (potential because the woman at the hostel said they might be closed on Sunday) and stopped off at tourist information receiving confirmation that the bike shop was closed.  On the walk back to the hostel, after a quick detour in the supermarket for some cold drinks, I concluded it was much too hot to take a ten kilometer bike ride (each way) to a bodega. 

So I spent the afternoon reading on the main square in San Rafael.  The city seemed extremely quiet; turns out Sunday was a poor choice of days to visit.  A few places were open and I strolled along the stone-paved tree-lined streets eventually coming across an ice cream shop.  Mint chip ice cream was the perfect antidote to the heat.  When I finally returned to the hostel at 7:30pm I was content to relax, shower and get a good night sleep.

Main square in San Rafael

Today started at 8:15am since I was supposed to be ready for my tour at 9.  Well, at 8:30 a woman showed up asking if I was ready.  I hurried to finish packing since I needed to check out and store my bag for the day; a bit more hectic than I planned.  When I got on the van, there was only one other couple and I discovered the tour was only in Spanish.  I leaned my head against the seat and sighed.  When I booked the tour with the hostel I spoke to the woman in English so I assumed she knew I would want an English tour.  The guide, Cynthia, offered me some mate as we drove to pick up the remaining passengers.

Fortunately, Mariana and her husband, a young couple from Buenos Aires spoke English and she translated some of the information.  I spent the majority of the day with them as it was easier to communicate.  Our first stop was a viewpoint overlooking the surrounding mountains followed by Nihuel dam, one of four dams along the river through Canyon de Atuel, a 20km long gorge with polychrome rock formations. 

Lago Nihuel

We drove into the gorge, years of the canyon’s creation displayed in layers of various rock sediment. We passed the second dam and lake, before stopping for a walk in the canyon.  I couldn’t help but be reminded of the walks we took in the Grand Canyon in July 2009.  The scenery wasn’t as stunning, but climbing the rocks and making our way through a narrow passage was very familiar. 

Canon de Atuel

On our walk in the canyon

A quick photo stop at a third lake before we settled in Valle Grande for lunch and afternoon activities.  Lunch was a run-of-the-mill, overpriced affair where I tried choripan (basically a sausage on bread).  We had three hours to enjoy the valley, with options of zip-lining, rafting or a boat ride, but Mariana, her hubby and I chose to relax on the river banks and swim.   After stepping into the chilly water, I resolved that my afternoon would be spent reading my book.  It was a sunny, hot afternoon in the Valle Grande.

Quick photo stop

Valle Grande

Just as we were leaving the valley, a storm came in and it started raining when we passed the final dam.  It only lasted an hour, and stopped after we arrived at the fruit factory.  As part of the tour they included a stop at a shop selling dried fruit, wine and olive oil.  You should have seen the masses of people reaching for the free samples – ridiculous.  The dried peaches were delicious, but I knew I’d never eat an entire bag and quickly exited the overcrowded, overheated room.

I was dropped at the hostel at 6:30pm, an hour earlier than expected and requested a change in my bus ticket since I’d booked the 9:30pm bus in anticipation of the 8:15 bus being too early.  Turned out I had plenty of time to shower and relax before boarding the 8:15pm bus to Mendoza.  I should be arriving before midnight and will jump in a taxi for my hostel.  Looking forward to my four-bed air-conditioned dorm.