Middle of nowhere 2

Saturday, January 15, 2011 - Sunday, January 16, 2011

Well, I’m feeling the same as I did yesterday at this time.  It’s just after 3pm and I’m relaxing in my room sweating.  Don’t think I mentioned it, but they can have up to six guests at the estancia, one private room and one dorm room with four beds.  This is the first time I’ve had a room and bathroom to myself since my first night in South America in Santiago.  On the tour, I only had to share with one other but since then I’ve been sleeping in dorm rooms of anywhere from 4-8 people.  At Anto’s house, I shared her room and the bathroom with the entire family.  So I’m enjoying my own space.  Tonight I’ve got my own room in Paysandú and then back to dorms in Cordoba.

Yesterday afternoon after I wrote, Pedro and I went back on the horses.  My butt was already sore from the morning ride but I tried to ignore the minor discomfort.  I’m not sure if it was the heat, or if my horse was tired, but it kept turning back to go home.  It would walk straight following Pedro’s horse for a bit and then try to turn left.  I struggled to keep him going.  We rode to a river and into one of the pastures to herd the cattle from one area to another.  I watched as Pedro cased after a baby cow running along the wrong side of the fence mooing for its mother.  She was watching on the other side trying to communicate with her little one.  Eventually Pedro got him turned around and through the gate.

After two hours, we headed back to the house.  My horse took to the idea of going home and quickly made his way back.  Nahir and Maria Rose were setting up afternoon tea when we arrived and we sat around drinking tea and eating some of Maria Rose’s freshly cooked bread.   When I took out my Kindle to read, I got the normal 20 questions on my device and had to explain in Spanish that it is an electronic book.  Nahir asked the cost and was shocked to hear that it is inexpensive.  I explained that it cost a lot more originally but competition had brought prices down.

Before dinner, I took a shower, watched the sunset and relaxed in the semi-darkness.  The moon shone brightly in the sky.  The pre-meal down time was slightly awkward because I didn’t have much to say to Maria Rose’s husband (who’d arrived that afternoon) and Pedro never offered me any mate.  I’m not sure exactly what the tradition is, but I believe you are supposed to be offered mate, not ask for it.  So I just sat quietly then went into the house then came back out and basically felt a bit odd.

Dinner consisted of pasta with Bolognese sauce with flan con dulce de leche for dessert.  Another delicious meal.  Nahir actively engaged me in conversation and commented that I’d been speaking a lot more Spanish.  Glad I got to practice with some patient individuals.  By the end of the meal I was exhausted.  A full day of activity meant a peaceful night sleep.

I must have missed milking the cows this morning.  I was ready by 8:45am, similar to yesterday, and I thought I’d told Pedro that I was interested, but it was already done by the time I walked outside.  Actually, he was nowhere to be seen, but the cows weren’t in the small grazing area.  When I asked him about it on our ride, he told me he normally milks them at 6am. 

Nahir and Maria Rose were setting up breakfast, so I sat down and poured myself a cup of tea and some yogurt and ate some bread with dulce de leche.  The dulce is homemade, a nice change from the ultra-sweet and gooey stuff the hostels provide at breakfast.  After breakfast, Pedro made an appearance, taking a few pieces of bread from the table before motioning for me to join him on the horses.  Thankfully there is a strong breeze today, one that was blowing cool air this morning, which quelled some of the heat from the sun. 

The horse I was riding has a three month old baby, so she joined for the walk.  It was really cute to listen to them talk to each other through their “nays”.  During the night, Pedro heard a cow in pain, so part of our ride was a mission to find the cattle and bring it home.  Eventually he found the injured animal whose ear seemed to be partially falling off.  We brought it home and I watched him and Matias splash some liquid around the area.  The cattle moved quickly in the ring trying to escape the pain.

I enjoyed some reading time outside before my last meal at the estancia – an asado (barbeque) with side salads.  And now I’m just passing the time in the heat waiting for Matias to drive me to the bus station.  It has been a fabulous stay.